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Ever Met the Goddess of the Sky?

… Planning the unforgettable adventure of trekking in Nepal

by Jeffrey S. Rasley


This year, I will be leading an 11-day trek in Nepal, October 6-16, 2008
YOU ARE INVITED TO JOIN US
It will be an introductory trek involving hiking and camping through a jungle and lower Himalayan mountain range, rather than extreme high altitude trekking and climbing in ice and snow.

After tiring of my whining about turning 40, my wife not so gently suggested that I just do it, go! I took her advice and started planning to go on a 7-day trek along the Everest Base Camp trail in Sagarmatha Park in the Khumbu Province of Nepal.

My sweetheart may have later regretted her kick-in-the-pants because on that first trip in 1994, I fell in love with a goddess … the Goddess of the Sky, the Himalayas. Spectacular in their beauty, the Himalayas turned me on like no other place in the world, and in my quest for travel, I’ve visited over forty countries.

My travel adventures include hitchhiking across the country, traveling around Europe on buses and trains, motorcycling through Mexico, scuba diving all over the Caribbean, horseback riding in Belize, and kayaking around the South Pacific and Ionian Sea. From each of these experiences I was enriched through encounters with different lands, cultures and people. However, my encounter with the Himalayan Mountains, the Nepalese-Tibetan culture, and monks in Buddhist monasteries on that trek in 1994 was so moving I could hardly wait to return.

I took a couple mountaineering skills-courses before I returned, then participated in several climbing expeditions in the Himalayas during the 90s. To summit a high peak is an amazing experience and a high (in both senses) like no other. It is difficult in terms of the training required and the physical and emotional challenges of a Himalayan climb are tremendously grueling.

In 2003, I hiked to the Everest Base Camp with Hari Pudasaini, who had been a sirdar (head guide) on a previous expedition and had become my friend. It was liberating not to have to worry about all the extra logistics and equipment of a climb, and to enjoy a more leisurely trek with a friend (especially since the friend speaks Nepali). Hari and I attended the highest party in the world in honor of the 50th anniversary of Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay’s summit of Mt. Everest. Since then, I have helped organize three treks for groups in the Nepal Himalaya, all with the option of an introductory climb.


This year, I will be leading an 11-day trek in Nepal, October 6-16, 2008. It will be an "introductory trek" involving hiking and camping through a jungle and lower Himalayan mountain range, rather than extreme high altitude trekking and climbing in ice and snow. This type of trekking offers more cultural and social experiences with Nepalese villagers, and will be less extreme in altitude, temperature and physical challenge than a mountaineering expedition. An opportunity to provide assistance to a schoolhouse and school kids in a remote village will also be afforded for those interested in a mission aspect to the trip. One member of our group is a family physician, and he plans to bring medical supplies to the one medical clinic in the area.

The trek will take us through the remote Solu region of eastern Nepal, just south of the Khumbu region of Mt. Everest. We will enjoy extraordinary views of the great white peaks south of the Everest Massif from the passes we cross on the trek. The villagers in this area are the Rai people. The Rai follow an animist religion, which is believed to pre-date Hinduism and Buddhism.


We may meet with a dhami (shaman) in a village, as well as Hindu saddhus and a Buddhist lama in Katmandu. There will be opportunities for rock climbing and scramble climbing up in the mountains for the more energetic members of the group. Some members of the group have already arranged additional excursions to other areas of Nepal or around the Katmandu Valley before or after the trek.

The itinerary and ground package prepared by our Nepalese outfitter/expedition company, Adventure Geo Treks Ltd., includes three nights in my favorite hotel in Katmandu, the Katmandu Guesthouse. The price of the trek is just over $1,000.00, not including airfare.

As “trek leader”, I am not a guide and have no formal or legal responsibilities different than other members of the group. The trekking permits the guiding company must obtain for us will list me as the "leader" of the group, because the forms require someone be so designated. I do facilitate group members signing up for the trek. In addition, I will offer advice and generic information to anyone who wants it based upon my prior experiences in Nepal and India.

By not using a "Western" guiding company, the cost of our trek is about one-half that of a comparable trek booked through an American, English or European company. The cost of a Western guide plus the greater profit margin expected by Western companies make the difference. Most Nepalese earn less than $1.00 per day, so the cost of labor for the local staff is very low by American standards. Staff positions with expedition companies are highly prized because the pay is very good by Nepalese standards.

The cost incurred by a Western company to fly a guide to Nepal and pay his salary almost equals the entire pay for the local crew.

I chose to work with Adventure Geo Treks on this excursion because Niru’s staff and especially Ganesh, our sirdar, had provided such outstanding services for the last two groups I led. Initially, before choosing Niru’s company for the first trek that I planned, I contacted several previous clients of his and they raved about the great experiences they had with Adventure Geo Treks. They weren’t exaggerating, as members of the two groups I’ve led with Adventure Geo Treks now rave about their experiences. E-mail and Website are: E-mail: niru@wlink.com.np; Website: www.adventuregeotreks.com. Niru is always happy to respond to inquiries about trekking and climbing in the Himalayas.


English and Continental European aristocrats established trekking and climbing traditions in the Himalayan countries in the 19th and early 20th Centuries. These folks were adventurous explorers who loved a great challenge, but they expected to be served when in camp. They saw nothing wrong with hiring locals to carry all the heavy loads required for a jolly good adventure in the mountains. Tally ho!

It is now the norm that trekkers/climbers in staffed expeditions carry nothing more than a light daypack, while porters (called “coolies” by locals) carry the tents, kitchen supplies, clothes and equipment of the trekkers/climbers. One is awakened by a “kitchen boy” bringing a cup of steaming tea or coffee to your tent, and later a warm bowl of washing water for face and hands. Expedition cooks are trained to cook for the Western palate and servings are quite generous. Shower and toilet tents are provided. Adventure Geo Treks even provides hot water bottles at night to tuck into your sleeping bag to keep your toes warm.

I have seen many changes in Nepal since my first visit in 1994. I was blessed to use the first flush toilet in Lukla Village, and saw the first light bulb turned on in Namche Bazaar. Now, most of the Khumbu region has running water and electricity. The government was an absolute monarchy, which fought a civil war against a revolutionary Maoist insurgency.

The Maoists recently won a majority of seats in the Parliament, and the King has been deposed. Yet, in many ways village life in the less-traveled areas of Nepal has changed little in 500 years.

So, I look forward to exploring the less-traveled Solu region this October. Those who join our village trek will experience the most majestic mountains in this world and the strongest and kindest people I know.

THE ADVENTURE OF A LIFETIME AWAITS THOSE WHO MAKE THE TREK!

Author above Kyanjin GompaAuthor above Kyanjin GompaJeffrey S. Rasley practices law in Indianapolis, Indiana. He was admitted to the Indiana and U.S. District Court Bars in 1979 and later to the U.S. Supreme Court Bar. Rasley has published numerous articles and photos in academic and mainstream periodicals, including Newsweek, Chicago Magazine, ABA Journal, Family Law Review, Pacific Magazine, and Indy’s Child. His hobbies include Himalayan mountaineering and solo-sea kayaking. He plays in two volleyball groups and works out regularly at the YMCA. Rasley is married to Alicia and has two sons, James and Andrew.

CONTACT JEFF RASLEY at jrasley@juno.com for trip information and become part of the October 2008 village trekking team.